Tam Coc

We decided today to brave a one day tour to Tam Coc with Anh. Tam Coc is suppose to be the Halong Bay on land because of it's tall limestone cliffs that grow straight up out of the plains. As usual, booking through the hotel meant being cramped into a 14 seat "van" with every seat occupied. It always amazes me that they can fill every tour we have been on no matter what day it runs. Also, as usual, we were the lucky recipients of the rear seats, squished in with no way to escape unless all the other passenger disembarked first. Figures for a person who is claustrophobic - luckily working around an MRI has greatly reduced my fear of tight spaces :-)
The ride was a very bumpy 2.5 hours, with a stop to see the ancient Vietnam capital. Anh's sweaty body in my arms made it difficult to fully enjoy the ruins. Not to mention that I was looking for a good place to change him the whole time we were there. I didn't suppose it was proper to change a screaming baby's diaper near one of the sacred rooms!
At Tam Coc itself, we all boarded small row boats, 2 passengers per boat, for the 2 hour trip on the river. It was very kind of the locals to provide us an umbrella and a hat in exchange for a few dong. Aside from the scenic nature of the boat trip along the cliffs, there were no car horns, no people yelling, no motorbikes trying to run you down. Peace and quite and a chance to relax. Well, at least until Anh blew his diaper! Yes, our first explosion experience, in a small row boat, with no spare clothing, but at least a spare diaper. It was fairly hilarious trying to hold Anh and his umbrella while cleaning the bottom of the boat, my pants, and his bottom. It was probably the highlight of the day for our "guide".
Other than that small mishap, the rest of the trip was leisurely. We saw everyday life on the river - people fishing, praying at shrines, and selling their wares to tourists. There were brahman cattle, mountain goats (!), and a strange bird with iridescent wings and a long beak for catching fish. The river itself has carved its way through 3 caves in the cliffs where stalagtites grow from the ceiling and you must crouch down in the boat to pass. It was a day of wonder away from the bussle of Hanoi.
Back on the bus, and after a short formula induced nap, Anh decided that play time had started. He has become more and more vocal, and was talking and singing to himself and anyone else who would listen. As soon as the woman in front of us took notice, he began squealing with delite and putting on his best flirt face. I had to pull him back for fear of him grabbing hold of her hair. He is quite strong and has a death grip. So, Patrick and I spent the 2.5 hour ride back distracting Anh so that he wouldn't pitch a fit. Unfortunately, a new bottle wouldn't do, so instead the bottle top became a play thing. Play time continued back at the hotel, through dinner, and right up until 9pm. One second he was bouncing his hands on the bed talking up a storm and the next second his hands came down, he became quite, and he started snoring. Ahhhh, a boy who takes after his mom and can fall asleep in seconds flat!
Another day down in the books!